Not many vineyards in the Northwest can really classify as “old vine” in Old World terms, nor have many had multiple lives as vigneron-ran estates. Planted in the 1960s as the vineyard formerly known as Dragonfly, the 12-acre Atavus Vineyard can check both boxes. The Columbia Gorge AVA is home to many “bordertown” producers, including Analemma and its estate Atavus Vineyard which sits on the Oregon side in the town of Mosier.
Owned-and-operated by the husband and wife team Steve Thompson and Kris Fade, “analemma” is defined as “the figure eight shape of the sun’s annual migratory path between the northern and southern hemispheres as seen from the Earth.” As a symbol of infinity and “boundlessness,” the couple chose this as the winery’s hallmark and represents that which just cannot be described. What can be described is the winery’s vineyard and winemaking practices—organically-farmed, biodynamically-grown and with minimal cellar interaction to showcase the real star of their wines, Atavus Vineyard. The 2011 Gewürztraminer is barrel-fermented and Germanic in style—aiming toward higher acids (the Gorge’s specialty) and lower residual sugar. Success! The outcome is an aromatic one with a nose bursting with cherry blossoms, nutmeg, melon and pear with juicy apricot and white peach. The palate hit its mark with bright acid, a wide mouthfeel of stone fruit and spice, finishing dry and crisp.
