Here’s what to know about this often-misunderstood beverage.
Ice wine might be one of the wine industry’s most elusive characters depending on where in the world you reside. After all, one needs the perfect freezing conditions to make it all happen. In other words, these bottles aren’t easily attainable and often come at a higher price point. As another added layer of difficulty, sweet and dessert wines don’t always have the easiest time in the U.S. market.
“I am not sure why people can be so resistant to wine that might have some residual sugar in it,” says Tom Fitzpatrick, head winemaker at Alloro Vineyard in Sherwood, Oregon. “It’s almost like they think they aren’t serious wine people if they like one with a little sweetness to it.”
JJ Williams, of Kiona Vineyards in Washington’s Red Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA) agrees. He goes on to add “If you don’t like the sweet wine category at $12 a bottle, why would you make the jump to $90 for a half bottle? There’s not a lot of steps on that ladder to work up to quality stuff,” says Williams. In other words, there can be a high barrier to entry for the sweet wine category.
However, if you’re ready to change your mind about ice wine or simply get to know the category better, you’ll find some incredible bottles definitely worth your time and attention. From how it’s made to how to pair it with a variety of dishes, here’s what you need to know about ice wine.
What Exactly is Ice Wine and How is it Made?
Ice wine is produced all over the world. With notable examples coming from Canada, Germany, Austria, and, of course, the United States. It’s made from grapes that have been harvested late after they have frozen on the vine, resulting in highly concentrated and sweet juices.
Kiona Vineyards has been making an ice wine with Chenin Blanc since the mid 1980s. But for those who live in or nearby the Pacific Northwest, you probably know that it doesn’t reach freezing temperatures too often. So Kiona doesn’t produce their ice wine every year.
“We circle a few nights on the calendar where we know it’s going to get below freezing,” says Williams. “And then someone, normally my dad, calls us around two or three in the morning to let us know it’s time and we head out there to start picking.”
From there, time is of the utmost importance.
“Even if the grapes are frozen in the vineyard, if they melt on the crush pad before they are pressed it’s not ice wine anymore,” says Williams. “So it’s go time.” Once the grapes are pressed, the fermentation process looks similar to standard winemaking only happening at a slightly lower temperature. It’s also important to note, you’re getting far less juice out of these grapes. So the overal quantity is going to be much smaller.
But as referenced before, the conditions to make ice wine are not always present in the Pacific Northwest, so winemakers have come up with alternative methods to make wines in a similar style. Like Fitzpatrick, who makes Vino Nettare, and ice wine-style bottling with Muscadine and Riesling. He starts with the Riesling juice.
“The Riesling juice sits in below freezing temperatures for around a week, until it’s almost frozen but not quite. ” says Fitzpatrick. “Then we slowly let it thaw out. And that juice is very concentrated, it almost has the consistency of honey. And it’s very, very sweet, above 50 brix.” That highly concentrated juice is then blended with Muscadine and fermented down to about 36 brix.
How to Pair Ice Wine with Food
If you have spent any time in tasting rooms or learning about wine, you’ve probably heard one of the golden rules: “pair sweet wines with desserts.”
But in the case of ice wine, “you have to let it be the dessert,” says Williams. “People tend to serve it with a decadent cake or ice cream. But I prefer the juxtaposition of pairing it with something with fat and acid. It really plays nicely.”
Like cheese.
“Other types of wine can clash with hard to pair cheeses like goat or blue,” says Fitzpatrick. “They can give the wine a slightly off flavor. But it works really well when paired with our ice wine.”
AS for something a bit more acidic, Williams leans more toward fruit.
“In Washington we have really nice nectarines,” he says. “This might sound really simple, but just cut one in half and toss it on the grill with olive oil and rosemary. Maybe add just a dash of creme fraiche or mascarpone cheese on top.”
The result? “A dessert that will compliment the ice wine, not compete with it.”
Yet, Fitzpatrick doesn’t think ice wine should just be relegated to the end of the meal.
“We’ve paired it with pork dishes and it works quite nicely,” he says. “It’s more versatile than many people think.”
Icewines and Ice-Style Wines to Find
2022 Estate Red Mountain Chenin Blanc Ice Wine
AVA: Red Mountain
Chenin Blanc
$65 | 375ml
2022 Vino Nettare Dessert
AVA: Chehalem Mountains
65% Muscat and 35% Riesling
$45 | 375ml
2019 Eroica Ice Wine
AVA: Horse Heaven Hills
100% Riesling
$60 | 375ml
2021 Ultima
AVA: Yamhill-Carlton
100% Riesling
$36 | 375ml
2022 Ice Wine Riesling
AVA: Snake River Valley
100% Riesling
$30 | 375ml
Photo by Kiona Vineyards
