Aretha Franklin is always a good sign. That is, when I walk into a restaurant and her soulful voice greets me through the speakers, I am already happy as good music gives me hope for great everything else. An apparent Aretha Franklin fan, bisl, one of the newest dining spots in Bozeman, Montana, does not disappoint. Aesthetically, the light wood beams run across the ceiling, intricately contrasting with the exposed blonde brick walls, dramatically set off by dark flooring and a bright open kitchen with a six-seat chef’s counter.
This intimate restaurant is the labor of love of chefs Davey and Kierst Rabinowitz. The couple met while working at Departure, a contemporary Asian restaurant in Portland. The two traveled extensively working at world-class restaurants around the globe and eventually decided to bring their passions back to Montana where Chef Davey Rabinowitz is from — with bisl as the result. The duo aims to introduce guests to Montana fare using locally grown or raised products as much as possible while incorporating recipes, traditions and cooking techniques they were exposed to during their time abroad — with the mantra of “farm-made modern.”
Bearing in mind that “bisl” itself translates from Yiddish as “a little bit,” many dishes can be enjoyed tapas-style so guests can get a wide ranges of tastes and culinary experiences, as well as share with the fellow diners in their party. The beef tartare is a great example: An awesome plate to share, topped with a cooked egg yolk and a light sprinkle of microgreens sided with some toasted sourdough. Delicious on a mouthwatering level, the tartare pairs great with the Poema Brut rosé cava from Spain, which is offered by the glass.
The wine list, while not huge, has great depth and is one of the more interesting lists in the area. Its focus is on sustainable, natural wines with an emphasis on production style rather than regions. European wines take center stage with a few domestics from California, Washington and Oregon to round things out. The wine meu isn’t so esoteric that diners won’t recognize some of the selections but there are wines listed that most people have never heard of, including two from the country of Georgia. The list offers 11 wines by the glass and 50 additional bottle options. The beer selection is also noteworthy; you won’t find the traditional domestic brews here as bisl is dedicated to showcasing imports and local craft brews, highlighting quality and craftsmanship.
From Georgian wines to beef tartare and classic soul music, bisl seamlessly pulls contrasting elements into something that feels very natural. If bisl is any indication of what Bozeman has in store for diners in the coming months and years, there is a lot to look forward to in the state of Montana.
