Though Oregon is best known for Pinot Noir, and has been thus compared to France’s Burgundy region for years, it has more in common, perhaps, with the Loire Valley in France, as it’s actually a proper river valley, not unlike the Willamette.
It makes sense, then, that winemakers in Oregon began planting the grape known for producing the red wines of Beaujolais: Gamay Noir.
Beaujolais has been the beloved suggestion of wine experts and retailers for many years as the preferred wine for Thanksgiving, as it lends itself well to rustic dishes like whole birds basted with herbs and butter, root vegetables, and so on. Here in the Northwest, folks needn’t look so far abroad for great expressions of Gamay Noir. Instead, there are a range of options grown in various Oregon AVAs that make excellent pairings for holiday tables.
Abbey Road Farm | Carlton, Oregon
This sprawling winery operates as a bed and breakfast in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Here, marine sediment soils similar to those found in the region of Beaujolais produce Gamay grapes that are tossed whole-cluster into sealed fermenters to undergo carbonic maceration before being split into both a clay amphora and some French oak for aging. This expression produces the expected flavors and aromas of strawberry and tart cherry alongside darker notes like plum and black currant. The whole cluster fermentation adds a spicy bit of black pepper and allspice, making a wine that will stand up to even sturdier fowl like duck or goose.
2022 Estate Gamay Noir – Carbonic | Yamhill-Carlton AVA | $36
Cooper Mountain Vineyards | Beaverton, Oregon
Cooper Mountain’s winery is located just a smidge north of the nested Laurelwood AVA in the greater Willamette Valley AVA and is one of a handful of 100% biodynamic wineries in Oregon. This holistic approach to winemaking involves livestock as part of a self-sustaining farm with no outside fertilizers allowed. The 2021 vintage has tremendous structure, complete with grippy tannins and red fruit flavors with ample acidity.
2021 Gamay Noir | Willamette Valley AVA | $30
Division Wines | Portland, Oregon
Division offers multiple Gamay expressions in red, as well as still and sparkling rosés, but this expression, known as “Lutte” is made up of grapes from a collection of vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley. The largest percentage (66%) of grapes used in this wine come from JP Cellars’ Jubilee Vineyard, which is composed of volcanic clay and marine sediment soils which impart more black cherry and dark cranberry character as well as a silkier, softer body in this 2022 expression.
2022 Gamay Noir “Lutte” | Willamette Valley AVA | $30
Et Fille | Newberg, Oregon
Et Fille’s winery is based in Newberg, but this wine comes by way of the Tualatin Hills AVA from a newly planted Gamay Noir vineyard just 8 miles south of Forest Grove. This big boy clocks in a little heavier than others at 13.9%, but the strawberry and cherry sweetness are kept in check with bright, punchy acidity balanced by pepper and earthy characteristics with a bit of cedar on the nose.
2022 Gamay Noir | Tualatin Hills AVA | $34
Hanson Vineyards | Woodburn, Oregon
This Woodburn winery is home to 11 different grape varietals, and while they proudly proclaim their love for Alsatian-style whites, they also grow Gamay and Pinot along with lesser-known grapes like Leon Millot. Hanson’s Gamay Noir ticks all the boxes without affecting the balance too strongly in any direction. Zippy acidity, sour cherry and marionberry with a dusting of pepper and a lower alcohol percentage (12.2%) make this one a versatile winner for butternut squash and roasted vegetables. The 2019 vintage, currently available on the winery’s website and priced modestly at 26 bucks a bottle, is drinking wonderfully right now.
2021 Gamay Noir | Willamette Valley | $26
Hayworth | Coburg, Oregon
A few miles north of Eugene in the small town of Coburg lies Hayworth’s Estate, in the greater Willamette Valley AVA. Hayworth first planted its Gamay Noir vines in 2006 and has since been banking on the growth of Gamay’s popularity in the region, having expanded the Gamay Noir vineyards in 2017. Fast forward a few years and the 2021 vintage is another bigger, bolder expression that’ll stand up to richer Pacific Northwest flavors like mushroom and truffle.
2021 Gamay Noir | Willamette Valley | $40
Hundred Suns Wine | McMinnville, Oregon
Hundred Suns winery derives its name from the amount of times the sun rises and falls between spring flowering and fall harvest. This wine spends time in mostly French oak, but 20% rests in an amphora as well, before being blended again and bottled. Here, peony, raspberry, and a kiss of smoke leap out of the glass, almost taunting the drinker with the suggestions of the fruit-supported, earthy structure, and subtle floral notes.
2022 Gamay Noir | Willamette Valley AVA | $35
Ribbon Ridge Winery | Newberg, Oregon
Like others in this list, Ribbon Ridge’s Gamay Noir is a small production bottling with fewer than 100 cases made. But unlike others in this list, this bottle is even more limited, in that the Ridgecrest Vineyard – where Ribbon Ridge got its grapes – has since ripped out all the Gamay plantings. Ribbon Ridge’s expression is reminiscent of ripe plum and crème de cassis up front, finished with a snappy bit of acid. This middle-weight red is up to the task of contending with main entrées without being so loud as to drown out the delicious creaminess of roasted garlic mashed potatoes or mac and cheese.
2021 Ridgecrest Old Vine Estate Gamay Noir | Ribbon Ridge AVA | $36
