Putting the old steakhouse aura out to pasture, meat-happy Flint Creek Cattle Co. opened on a prime corner of Seattle’s growing Greenwood neighborhood last month, but not without strife.
After three years of property development, including a year-long upgrade to the centenarian building Flint Creek was to open in a month later, a natural gas blast flattened a nearby building and wreaked havoc on 50 others, the restaurant among them, in March. The original roof and ceiling were structurally and aesthetically damaged, while the antique windows were blown out and the air ventilation trashed, causing founders Eric and Christy Donnelly, along with much of the developing community, to start the process over again.
French poet Édouard René de Laboulaye once said, “with patience, everything comes in due season,” and Flint Creek’s season came back around in November, opening to a hungry, carnivorous crowd championing for a win after such a loss. Despite the setback, winter could not be a better time to bring on the meat.
High-vaulted, wood-beamed ceilings meet walls of windows — which might be replacements but they are aspiring replicas, reminiscent of the originals — in this bustling and dynamic setting, a far cry from the white tablecloth décor of steakhouses past. Rustic and contemporary iron chandeliers bulge with bare light bulbs overhead the stained wood tables and a lucent green backlit bar shimmers below the upstairs loft seating. A fairly exposed kitchen showcases Chef Eric Donnelly at the helm, expediting plates and keeping a watchful eye over the young cooking staff while Christy Donnelly buzzes about the floor, greeting tables, passing dishes and telling their story to eager diners.
The second restaurant for the married couple (and new parents) after opening Fremont’s seafood-centric RockCreek in 2013 — named for Chef Donnelly’s favorite Montana fishing hole — this destination also finds its intentions from Western Montana devotion, but for the love of livestock. Sourcing and serving responsibly-raised and grass-fed premium meats from small-scale local farms and ranches, Flint Creek’s mission is to familiarize its guests with the featured farms as well as quality-produced lean meats.
And the options to do so are abundant: mains include venison loin, wild boar shoulder, bison hangar steak, lamb sausage and more, while smaller plates feature larger offerings of venison pâté, lamb tartare and duck confit. Meat-lovers will rejoice in any of the skillfully cooked cuts, but the slow-braised bison short rib should not be missed, complete with pickled mushrooms, baby turnips, creamy Parmesan grits and a sumptuous red wine crème fraîche broth to soak the meat in. The chop list should also be perused for a la carte selections, like the decadent two-pound bone-in rib chop from Meyer Co. Ranch in Helmville, Montana.
Even though meat is why most enter the renovated building, Flint Creek rounds out the menu with palate-pleasing produce as well, like a gussied up winter rendition of a steakhouse wedge salad with Belgian endive, bacon lardon, pomegranate, walnuts, shallots, Banyuls vinaigrette and blue cheese; or the grilled kuri squash, flavorsome in its own right but topped with burrata, toasted pistachio oil and saba for good measure; and the oven-roasted cauliflower, coated in hazelnut romesco.
Considering the high quality and generous portion sizes, you get what you pay for, from the mains to the sides. Entrees range from $19-30, with premium solo cuts sitting between $34-60 and sides and starters are in the window of $4-14.
Cocktails and wine also show up to showcase locally made products. Rye whiskey drinkers will enjoy the Riot Act (rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Bénédictine, orange bitters with an absinthe wash) or the Coffin Head (rye whiskey, blended scotch, Punt e Mes, maraschino), and clear liquor drinkers can still get their kicks with the Planter Box (rosemary-infused barrel-aged gin, lime, gum syrup, bitters, ginger beer) or the Montana Mule (vodka, amaro, lime juice, ginger beer). Proud supporters of Montana’s answer to Rainier, Montucky Cold Snacks is available in its blue mountain-wrapped pounder, but Seattle favorites like Holy Mountain, Stoup and Georgetown Brewing hold court on draft. The wine list is approachable for all palates, from local to international gems, at easy price points alongside celebration tiered alternatives.
With new chop house rules in play amid the contemporary West Coast design, Flint Creek plates up the meat and much more: just make sure to bring your appetite.
