How to reach the far edge of the world? Land on British Columbia’s Vancouver Island (via ferry, airplane or seaplane), get to the centrally located seaside community of Parksville and head west. The road winds through old growth rainforests, beside deep fresh lakes and along sheer rocky cliffs. When it finally stops, nearly two hours later, you’re there. You’ve arrived to the far western coast and the wild Pacific Ocean—beyond this point is just endless waves rolling in from Asia.
If you turn right, you will be in Tofino, world famous surf and resort town. But if you take the turn less traveled—left—you will find yourself in the quieter, smaller town of Ucluelet. Pronounced “you-CLUE-let,” or Ukee as locals know it, this hamlet is a little secret gem for fishers, surfers and R&R seekers.
The word “Ucluelet” is a local First Nations word meaning “safe harbor.” Archaeological evidence indicates the presence of First Nations in this region for at least 4,300 years. Captain James Cook of the British Navy first set foot on this rugged coast in 1778. Nearly 100 years later, fur sealers settled in the area, establishing a trading post in Ucluelet harbor. The area began to grow along with the sealing industry and became a bustling little town. Today, Ukee is still a bustling little town, fluctuating seasonally and centered on fishing, outdoor adventure and recreational activities like hiking, kayaking, fishing, diving, camping and wildlife watching. And, of course, getting away from it all.
At Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, in the heart of Ucluelet, that’s a given. Carved into the craggy coastline, buffered by the power of the Pacific waves and surrounded by the serenity of the forest, the resort typifies West Coast high-end rustic. At every turn, you are met with stealthily soothing gray slate and soul-warming wood. Expansive floor-to ceiling windows front the hotel, flooding the restaurant, lounge, lobby spa and guestrooms with natural light and making the most of its protected coast-caressing location. The dramatic wine cellar embraces the sense of its surroundings—built into the rocks and cooled by the chilly Pacific waves, the space is held within a wall of windows that overlook the active surge channel crashing below.
Guest suites are similarly smartly fashioned, with the aforementioned sweeping windows with forest and/or ocean views, long wrapping balconies, gas fireplaces and Miele-equipped kitchens. Bathrooms with heated slate tiles, deep soaker tubs and rain showerheads—not to mention the cushioned California King bed in the sleeping quarters—will keep you comfortable during the powerfully fierce winter storm-watching season.
When you’re ready to leave the serenity of your suite, there is a public outdoor hot tub, plunge pool, fitness center and spa on-site, focused on applying the natural essence of the sea inside. The Drift Spa, for example, features SeaFlora, the wild, hand-harvested, certified organic seaweed products made on Vancouver Island, as its exclusive line of body and skin care.
Step outside and there is a rocky beach to explore yards from your front door. The scenic and driftwood-clad Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is a few minute drive down the road and the legendary surf of Tofino beaches lie just beyond that. Spend the day beachcombing, rock climbing or tidepool investigating at the bay at the root of the resort. The beach also skims the Wild Pacific Trail, a nearly six-mile (nine kilometers) hiking trail through the coastal rainforest that weaves through ancient trees, some nearly 800-years-old.
When hungry after soul-searching or scavenging for shells on the beach, Fetch, Black Rock’s full-service restaurant, serves upscale West Coast dining for breakfast, lunch and dinner (with a curated wine selection to match). The more casual Float Lounge provides a lively place to enjoy local craft brews and small plates, including an expansive and panoramic patio. Both eateries are seasonally inspired and certified sustainable by the conservation program Ocean Wise.
Arriving at Black Rock after a long, beautiful drive in, you might drop your bags in your suite and head to the lounge. A shared plate of calamari, hand-cut fries and fish tacos chould be washed down with Tofino Brewing lager, made nearby. Soon, you’ll settle into “island time,” embracing the slower speed and greater feeling of gratitude. As you watch the sun slip down over the ocean from the deck, chilled BC fizz in hand, it becomes evident how getting away from it all is really getting back to it all.
