Ex Nihilo Vineyards is a beautiful winery located in the heart of the Okanagan Valley in Lake Country, British Columbia. The name was inspired by a Frederick Hart sculpture on the western façade of the Washington National Cathedral in Washington, D.C., a Latin phrase meaning “out of nothing.” The tasting room was designed to showcase local artists and makes for a unique, vibrant environment for tasting wine.
Winemaker Marissa Neuner grew up in a wine-loving family with the juice served at dinner, family gatherings, Christmas and other occasions. “As an adult I knew very quickly that wine was the perfect combination of artistic expression and the scientific background I was forging at university,” she says.
While pursuing a Master’s Degree in Biology at the University of British Columbia, Neuner studied the microbial, chemical and sensory aspects of spontaneously fermented Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at Quails’ Gate Estate Winery under the guidance of winemaker Nikki Callaway. Her exposure to cellar life resulted in a new career and, after graduating and working at a few wineries in the Okanagan Valley, she found a home at Ex Nihilo where she combines her research background with old-world techniques and modern innovations to produce wine she loves.
1) What is your favorite grape varietal and how are you using it in your wine?
My favorite white grape varietal is Riesling, because the acidity allows Riesling to be cellared and go on a flavor evolution similar to red wines. It is extremely well-suited to northern latitudes and grows wonderfully on our property, making a wine that is very aromatic on the nose while being just as exciting on the palate. Our Riesling [when blended in] also gives structure and balance to our white blends, keeping them crisp and refreshing, especially in our sparkling. My favorite red grape varietal is Merlot, because it can satisfy the red wine drinkers who enjoy fruit forward wines and the red drinkers who enjoy structured tannins. Currently, we make a single varietal Merlot and use Merlot as a component of our Night, a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and of course, Merlot.
2) What is your most challenging grape to work with and why is it difficult or challenging?
The most challenging grape to work with is Gewürztraminer. It grows like a jungle vine and tends to be more prone to mildew than some of our other varieties making it a vineyard challenge. It also has a ton of protein and pectin in the grape pulp which, if not handled correctly, can lead to off odors forming during fermentation that are very difficult to remove from the wines.
3) What is your favorite libation to sip on in your downtime?
My favorite libation when I need some downtime is completely seasonal. In the summer I gravitate towards a margarita or mojito on my patio — anything with lots of fresh lime and ice while listening to a podcast. In the winter I will always choose a Cabernet-based wine or a Manhattan to warm me up while I paint.
4) Harvest time is almost upon us. What are your hopes and dreams for this year’s crop? Anything new and exciting on the horizon?
My hopes for this year’s crop is that the smoke exits the valley and the sunshine comes back to coax the fruit to the perfect sugar and acid balance. This year we are all very excited for what’s shaping up to be the best looking Chardonnay crop from our property and the inclusion of Malbec in our portfolio, making for some great barrel programs.
