This coming Sunday is Cabernet Franc Day, according to whomever the people are who make such determinations. Regardless of the origins of this “holiday,” it affords us the chance to celebrate a grape which seems to be particularly well suited to the Pacific Northwest. In France, the grape produces quite different wines in the Loire Valley and in Bordeaux, and both styles are on display here.
That diversity of style is what makes Cabernet Franc exciting. Depending on how it is grown and vinified, it can express itself quite differently. Picked a bit early and stored in stainless steel, it can have a bright and lively freshness that transitions into savory herbs and earthiness. When made like this, it appears to be more of a kind with Gamay Noir than with its Bordelaise cousins. For versions like this, try Southern Oregon’s Leah Jorgensen Cellars and Savage Grace‘s from the Rattlesnake Hills.
These wines are fast becoming some of my favorite options for wine pairings, as their blend of bold but not over-ripe fruit, vibrant acidity and savory notes make them great with a whole slew of dishes. Grilled meats are an obvious choices, as is game, but I also find a lot to love when this style of Cabernet Franc is served with roasted root vegetables. The interplay between the sweet earthiness of a roasted parsnip and the tart fruit of the wine is simply delightful.
In the warmer parts of the Northwest, you can discover another version of Cabernet Franc. Allowed to reach a slightly higher level of ripeness and concentration, it can easily be mistaken for its more famous offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet it still retains the sense of earthiness and the scent of savory herbs like tarragon that set it apart. While it’s most typically blended in with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, some producers are making it the star of the show, particularly in Washington. Among the many options, I’ve been enamored with the wines from Andrew Will, Fall Line, Tamarack Cellars and Two Mountain.
These are some of the best wines for the heartier winter fare that I’m currently craving: braised meats and mushrooms, most obviously. Yet those slight green notes also make it a good choice for the endless parade of kale and chard that winter in the Northwest brings. So definitely give Cab Franc a chance on Sunday (or any day) and if you’re anything like me, you’ll probably be drinking it quite a bit more frequently than once a year.
