In this age of couch-surfing, craigslist and last-minute bookings on Priceline, it’s easy to forget that cross-country journeys used to be much more difficult. Instead of grabbing a duffel bag and heading to the airport, an overland trip would entail days, if not weeks, of grueling effort. Back then, the sight of the Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City, Ore. must have seemed like an oasis rising out of the desert, promising sustenance, rest and comfort to the weary traveler.
Just off I-84, south of La Grande, Baker City was once a mere cluster of cabins and is now a thriving town set in a valley in between the peaks and trees of the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest. As the population exploded around the turn of the century, several fires on Main Street prompted the town’s inhabitants to gradually switch from wood-framed buildings to brick and native stone. One of those buildings was the impressive Hotel Warshauer, which was built by the Warshauer brothers in 1889 and remained thus named until the Geiser family purchased it in 1900.
Stepping into the Geiser feels like traveling back in time—and not in a kitschy sense, with salvaged wood counter tops and ironic mounted deer heads, but to a time when elegance and glamour were much coveted qualities and in very short supply. Past the front desk, the hotel guest first sees the Palm Court, which is the hotel’s dining room. White tablecloths provide a stark contrast to the dark, mahogany columns that rise past the second-floor balcony and to a beautiful stained-glass ceiling. It is a setting that cries out for silk and diamonds, and for diners to be admired by those passing on the promenade above.
The elaborately detailed banisters and railings of the spiral staircase lead to the hotel’s rooms and suites, which are surprisingly affordable given the overall air of opulence (the most inexpensive room starts at $79). Expect crystal chandeliers and gilt mirrors, and expansive views of the nearby mountains or Baker City’s historic downtown through 10-foot-tall picture windows.
The Geiser’s in-house Geiser Grill and saloon both offer a wide selection of local beers and wines, as well as cocktails made with local ingredients, such as huckleberries from nearby Hells Canyon. But Baker City itself is also worth exploring, particularly for beer drinkers. The city is home to two excellent breweries, both of which are just a few blocks from the hotel. Bull Ridge Brew Pub is a quiet, comfortable neighborhood hangout, and Barley Brown’s is a world-class brewery just across the street. Visitors can taste dozens of their award-winning brews, both in their brewpub and a new tasting room (currently called Baker City Brewing for logistical purposes).
And beer-lovers aside, many tourists to Baker City come to enjoy outdoor pursuits like skiing on fresh powder at nearby Anthony Lakes, or hiking or boating in breathtakingly beautiful Hells Canyon, the deepest river gorge in North America—even deeper than the Grand Canyon! Then, as now, the Geiser is the ideal resting place for anyone seeking a bit of comfort in the rugged vistas of eastern Oregon. Duffels and denim cutoffs are certainly an option, but take a minute to rinse the travel dust off and enjoy good food and drink in one of the state’s hidden treasures.
