Picking wine out for Thanksgiving can be more complicated than it appears on the surface: the traditional foods combine some slightly unusual flavors, buying for larger groups can be tricky and figuring out what to prioritize can always be a bit of a hassle. My general approach is to find wines that pair well with as much of the meal as possible without being so exotic or esoteric to dissuade all but the most determined drinker. Plus, Thanksgiving is basically the ultimate locavore holiday, so I figured I’d pick a few Northwest wines that fit the bill. Any buying guide will necessarily be limited in scope, but I’ve tried to highlight a few of my favorites, listed from the lighter side to fuller bodied wines.
Argyle Brut ($25) — Great sparkling wine has still largely eluded the Pacific Northwest, but perhaps that’s because would-be producers know they’ve got a lot of work ahead of them to surpass Argyle. The 2012 version of its signature sparkler is tart and crisp, with just enough texture to hold up against heartier fare like mashed potatoes and dark meat turkey.
McKinley Springs Chenin Blanc ($14) — Because of the slight gamey nature of turkey meat, I tend to pair it with white wines that have a bit of funk to them. Chenin Blanc can certainly go that route, and while this expression isn’t nearly as funky as some French offerings, it combines a bit of white peach, honey and lively acidity in a tight little package.
Dowsett Gewürztraminer ($21) — Yes, not everyone loves Gewürztraminer. The highly perfumed nature of the varietal is one reason why, and another is that it can occasionally be made in a style that can only be described as syrupy. Yet this surprisingly lean version highlights grapes from the iconic Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge, where the cooler temperatures and whipping winds are perfect to chisel a great wine out of a sometimes flabby starting material.
Montinore Estate Pinot Noir ($18) — The 2013 vintage might not have been easy for many Willamette winemakers, but it’s sure produced some great wines. This estate Pinot tantalizes with aromas of bright cherry, mushrooms and dried leaves, while having just enough body to hold the whole package together.
Leah Jorgensen Cellars “Loiregan” Cabernet Franc ($25) — When I’m not looking to stick local for Thanksgiving, Cab Franc from the Loire Valley is one of my go-to wines. Thankfully, Leah Jorgensen makes this excellent example of the style from fruit in the Applegate Valley of Oregon. Dark cherry and plum fruit combine with green herbs and a lively acidity to make this a perfect contrast to thick gravies and squash dishes.
Fall Line “Artz Vineyard” ($35) — Even though the typical Thanksgiving meal can be a bit hard to pair with Bordeaux-styled wines, they’re still the thing that many crave, especially for a holiday. Thus, here’s a wine that also features Cab Franc, but blends it elegantly with Merlot and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. The black currant and dark cherry are ripe without being jammy, the silky tannins and smooth finish are delightful, and the final zing of acid keeps things from getting too heavy.
So gather your family and friends, turn on the oven and crack open a few bottles this Thursday. If there’s ever a day for wine lovers, it’s Thanksgiving.
