Taste of Tulalip is the real start of the holiday season for me–a chance to simply enjoy some of the finest wines in the world, hailing from both far and near. The two-day celebration of wine is hosted at the Tulalip Resort Casino in Tulalip, Washington and serves as an opportunity to take stock of the world of wine and how the Northwest fits into it. With that in mind, here are some thoughts both on the event itself and the wines (and beers!) I tasted there-in.
- The Bubble Room was a long time coming. Sparkling wine had never quite received its due at Taste before, and giving attendees the chance to sip world-class bubbles from big name producers like Krug, Nicolas Feuillatte, Krug, Veuve Cliquot and Ferrari was just awesome. Perrier-Jouet’s “Belle Epoque” 2006 stole the show, with a texture like a perfectly-made crème caramel and the kind of finish that makes you almost regret trying another wine.
- Quilceda Creek Vintners’ tactic of producing and labeling certain single-vineyard wines is an interesting one. Given the Washington winery’s incredible success and profile (its 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon was just named Wine Spectator’s #2 wine of 2015), I’m not sure the exact purpose, but if they want to start making more diverse (or at least specific) wines, this could be the first step in that direction.
- I’m not sure I’ve tasted a Syrah from Washington that had quite the texture of the 2013 La Cote Rousse from Betz Family Winery, which had a velvety finish that nearly defies description. How winemaker Bob Betz managed to combine riper fruit, savory aromatics and that aforementioned lavishness is, I’m sure, a bit of a prized secret, but it’s an accomplishment to be sure.
- After years of seemingly avoiding these kinds of events, it was cool (and a bit revealing) to see Reynvaan Family Vineyards represented. One of the more prized cult wineries in Washington, putting themselves on that stage might signal a willingness to be a bit more public than winemaker Matt Reynvaan’s mentor Christophe Baron has been with his Cayuse Vineyards.
- Domaine Drouhin remains, for my money, the benchmark for Oregon Pinot producers who truly aspire to the “Burgundian” style. Far too often that term is invoked at every turn, yet few wineries actually truly reveal a sense of place and principle the way that the Drouhin estate does.
- Winter beers were also out in full force, and the 2015 Dark Star imperial oatmeat stout from Fremont Brewing stood head and shoulders above the rest. Unfortunately, it’s apparently almost sold out, but those of you who’ve found it will enjoy rich chocolate notes, fig, and deliciously-layered maltiness with just the slightest backbone of hoppiness to hold it all together.
- Interestingly, the balance between food and wine seemed to be a bit off: in previous years it was easy to find a bite in almost every corner of the event, while this year the tastes that were available often had long lines. Given how much wine was being consumed, a few more options would have been appreciated.
Taste of Tulalip is certainly a must for wine lovers in Western Washington, especially those who want the chance to taste the best of our region against great wines from around the globe. While we might not be quite able to match some of the heights of a few select European wines, each year it becomes clearer how much progress we’ve made.
