Queen Elizabeth II once said: “I don’t go by the rule book, I lead from the heart not the head.” Head of state of the United Kingdom and 15 other Commonwealth realms, Liz might have some philosophies in common with Seattle restaurateuring monarch Tom Douglas. Now with 15 different restaurants that came from the chef’s heart, with sincere founding anecdotes and long-time friends as head chefs, Douglas’ reign has never been set by any rule book either.
A ruler of the people and author of three cookbooks for his subjects to use, Douglas is a man about town, a philanthropist and true leader in his restaurants, often caught in the kitchen of his numerous locations, running plates and busing tables. The expansion of the Tom Douglas Restaurants domain, mostly in downtown Seattle neighborhoods Belltown and South Lake Union, has been a slow burn until its recent explosion—opening five new joints (one now shuttered) in the last two years with the freshest being TanakaSan.
Lead by James Beard Award winner for Best Northwest Chef 2004 executive chef Eric Tanaka, TanakaSan comes from the heart of Douglas and the soul of Tanaka. As the hub of the new Assembly Hall metropolitan emporium that is plush with a deli/grocery, home goods stop, floralist, juicer and coffee shop, TanakaSan’s air smells of swank. From the TV behind the chef’s counter for guests to watch football to the bold allegiance to sake cocktails and “slushies” and the complex blend of aromas pumping into the dining room, the restaurant’s swagger is immediately sensed upon arrival.
Based on the initial strut, the food does not disappoint—although some dishes do not necessarily declare culinary cosmopolitan as much as the restaurant does. The broth for both the namesake ramen and pho dumplings was lackluster and the smoked salmon Rangoon arrived in a syrupy consommé that could be served on the side to avoid soggy wontons.
That being said, the pros crush the cons, ultimately in the presentation of the intricately decorated and prepared plates. The twice-fried chicken wings (stellar and wildly spiced in both the salty caramel and smoked chili form) were crispy, succulent and fried with precision, the smoked duck sausage was a juicy and piquant reconfigured duck bun and the garden-fresh endive and kale salad showcased the elusive forbidden black rice and house-whipped tofu with full flavor for all. The secret ingredient of the Tanaka family fried rice might be ketchup, but the dish was simple, homey and warming with thick-cut tender bacon and topped with a fried egg.
Go solely for the avocado hollandaise on the brown rice bowl (pick the smoked black cod for your protein), the solid selection of local brews and to experiment with sake, soju or shochu flights. On the topic of tippers, a number of “refreshers” are offered sans alcohol while the booze balanced menu proudly sports sake slushies and cocktails (try “The Berry” with Whidbey Island loganberry and the “Rise of Godzilla,” respectively), shochu infusions (some with sweet potato, some with barley) and plenty of Asian imported lagers and ales.
The king might have left the building in the humble and capable hands of Eric Tanaka, but Douglas’ presence is immanent in the latest progression of the restaurant empire, from affable and accommodating staff to the trendy table arrangements and widely pleasing menu. Much more success is sure to be seen from the Crown in the near future.
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