Drifters: Nita Lake Lodge

by | Jul 9, 2014

This story ran in a previous issue of Sip Northwest. To read the full story and other Libation Destinations like this, subscribe to our quarterly print magazine.

Years ago (and yes, I’m going back decades here) before there was Whistler, there was Whistler V.1. This first version of Whistler is present-day Creekside, situated a few miles south of today’s bustling Whistler Village. The original Whistler Mountain was an adventurous ski area in the 1960s, a time when a single lane road from Vancouver took over five hours for ski buffs to carefully drive up. Then, the village featured a four-person gondola to the mountain’s mid-station, a double chairlift to the alpine tree line and two T-bars. Facilities were rustic and sparse, and the site was acclaimed as much for its physical beauty as for the quality of the skiing.

Fast forward a couple of decades of growth, with the opening of Blackcomb Mountain (right next to Whistler Mountain) and the amalgamation of the two peaks creating one of the largest ski complexes on the continent. Repeatedly crowned the “Number One Ski Resort in North America,” Whistler had become a site in its own right in the 1990s—a vibrant self-governed municipality replete with hotels, pubs and year-round residents. Of course, hosting the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games helped propel Whistler’s name and image into the stratosphere.

Though Whistler’s proximity to Vancouver (now a stunningly beautiful 90 minute drive on a Sea-to-Sky highway), amazing annual winter sports conditions and gloried Olympic history are draw enough for many, it takes more than that to ensure continued success. Fortunately, Whistler is far from a one-season wonder, and far more than a one-industry town. Now the town is known for outdoor pursuits across all seasons, as well as a tight-knit community of restaurants, bars, producers and purveyors. A global mix of palates and experience has landed up here, resulting in a unique food and beverage community, one part local camaraderie and one part international influence. The abundance of top quality local ingredients in British Colombia colors almost every dish and drink, making the dining scene in Whistler all the more charismatic.

That original Whistler—the initial 1960s version—is now a small community named Creekside. Many locals call this neighborhood home, just a few minutes drive from the main Whistler Village. A few years ago, quiet Creekside was solely where locals lived, or where tourists crashed in condos for a cheaper price than Village hotels. Now, however, one of the choicest properties in Whistler is located in Creekside, and is sleepy no more. Nita Lake Lodge opened in 2008, uniquely hugging the shores of Nita Lake. Though this 77-room boutique property might lack proximity to the active village, the benefit of peaceful quietude wins out. The spacious and comfortably West Coast luxurious suites (stocked with 42‐inch plasma televisions, fireplaces, outdoor patios), friendly and attentive young international staff and stunning views (ask for lake-side) take you outside of the party festivities of the village and into a natural state of serenity. Douglas-fir beams, oversized windows and reclaimed rock are throughout the hotel, echoing the outdoor environment. The Valley Trail, a paved, accessible and scenic path running along the property line, makes for an easy few miles stroll to the main Village, and connects all of Whistler’s neighborhoods, lakes and parks. As well, the lodge offers a complimentary shuttle service for all guests that is equipped with an on-demand chauffeur to drive you the 10 minutes to the Village and back.

But let’s be honest here. What drew me to Nita Lake was more than aesthetics. It was appetite. In the four years since it has been open, the property has become known for its food and beverage program, anchored by a commitment to sustainability and handcrafted authenticity. Executive Chef Paul Moran oversees the three dining outlets on site. The young chef’s pedigreed experience includes stints at from Paris to Montreal, along with cutting his teeth at the Michelin-starred Pujol in Mexico City.

Nita Lake’s main restaurant, Aura, is casual fine dining, focusing on fresh, modern Pacific Northwest cuisine. Do not dismiss the notion of the $69 chef’s menu and let Moran get creative, although on the main menu, dishes like Quebec duck breast served with smoked with cherry trimmings, bing cherry and black, puffed rice is a winning combination. Same can be said for the healthy portion that is the warm Nova Scotia lobster, plated alongside Pemberton fingerling potatoes, cucumbers and an onion puree.

New this late summer and fall are Chef Moran’s foraging classes—Moran is a third generation forager and is taking shroom-hungry food-lovers into the forest to learn how to search safely for wild and edible plants, shoots, lichens and mushrooms. For the class only, price tag sits at $30; for the five-course foraged Chef’s dinner only, diners are charged $50 and for combo pack including the expedition plus dinner at Aura is a slim $70. The “Forage & Feast” package takes place every Wednesday in September and October.

Aura’s small wine list is sharply matched, full of hard-to-find boutique BC bottles such as Blue Mountain Gamay Noir and LaStella Fortissimo and adventurous international gems like Prado Rey Birlocho Verdejo/Viura blend fromRueda. When I visited, I spent most evenings in the comfy leather chairs at Cure Lounge. A ranging and changing selection of locally made charcuterie, sharing plates and imaginative locally-imbued cocktails are on point, and the lodge atmosphere typifies Whistler’s chic comfort casual. Don’t miss the Cedar Sour, built on rye infused with local cedar and accented with alluring lemon thyme simple syrup. Mornings are best opened at Fix Café—a bright, sunlit location for their coffee bar and deli. Fresh, gourmet sandwiches and snacks (many of which are gluten-free and/or vegan) and well made lattes will fuel your adventures. Most of the items here, as with all of the lodge’s eateries, are made in house. You can’t get more locally sourced than Nita Lake’s rooftop garden. The garden grows 30 types of herbs and 40 vegetables, and they make an appearance on menus from cocktails through desserts.

Though Nita Lake Lodge is only a few minutes removed from Whistler Village, it feels worlds away. If your goal is to enjoy the natural environment — by sight and stomach, a stay at this lodge is a must. The property was named one of the Top 25 Best Hotels in Canada in TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice 2012 awards, so the secret may be out. I like to visit in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall—Whistler is quieter, the seasonal scenery nothing short of spectacular and the rooftop gardens of Nita Lake are in top form.

Nita Lake Lodge || 2131 Lake Placid Rd, Whistler, BC || nitalakelodge.com

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