Just when I thought I’d gotten myself lost while navigating the Evergreen-lined shore of Lake Tapps in Washington’s Pierce County, I spotted a cluster of barrels marking the modest gravel entrance to Kalamar Winery. Upon pulling in, I was immediately greeted — hooves to fence — by Florence, the winery’s resident goat. I patted her “hello,” taking it all in. The view, the four-legged welcome staff, the charming barn doors framing the tasting room, the absence of crowds and, of course, the wine. It doesn’t get much more peaceful than this.
Owners Mark and Lisa Kalamar would agree. Located about 40 miles from Western Washington’s well-known wine hub of Woodinville, Kalamar’s serene lakeside landing pad is a much-needed escape from the city. “Being out here by [ourselves] is different from wine country,” says winemaker Mark Kalamar, who values his elbow room. “We don’t get all the tour groups, but it’s quiet.”
The quaint winery and tasting room, just steps away from the couple’s home, is a reflection of Kalamar’s Italian roots. A mural of grapes and a boot-shaped Italy spans one wall of what used to be the garage, while a green-, white- and red-striped flag can be spotted on another. A collection of French and American oak barrels dot the premises, permeating the air with aging aromatic reds, and a set of wooden stools invites tasters to sit down and stay awhile – true to the homey atmosphere of any Italian establishment, in which time seems to slow down a bit more with each new pour.
Kalamar remembers how his family, who immigrated from Northern Italy, “always had a jug of wine at the table” – a sure sign they had their priorities straight: good wine, family and enjoying good wine with family. His great uncle was the family winemaker, and few obstacles could come between him and a glass of vino.
“Washington didn’t have a lot of grapes back then, so a railcar would come up to Georgetown [Seattle, from California], and all the Italians would split the grapes,” Kalamar recalls. “It wasn’t until we cleaned out his stuff that we realized he didn’t always have a permit, and he also made more than the 200-gallon-per-year maximum.” By the time Kalamar was in his thirties, he was handed the winemaking torch – in this case, a wine press, gifted to him by great uncle.
As a man who’s always appreciated the family roots, he founded Kalamar Winery in 1999 with his wife Lisa. They now source exclusively Washington-grown grapes, specializing in medium-to-full-bodied reds, including Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. If the wine itself wasn’t an homage to family, each label also features artwork painted by Kalamar’s brother, Greg. The abstract scene depicts Mark and Lisa’s waterfront wedding reception, while the top of the label is shaped to outline nearby Mt. Rainier — honoring new roots, too.
Kalamar hones his craft while working full-time in machinery sales, and says winemaking has become something of an “overgrown hobby.” For now, he’s enjoying the perks that come with being “a small guy” on the outskirts of a busy city. While an off-property tasting room isn’t in the near future just yet, Kalamar says it’s not off the table, as long as he can preserve his peaceful vibe.
