Grazers: Burdock & Co.

by | Nov 8, 2013

“There are two types of people in this world. Those that say ‘bur-dick’ and those that say ‘burr-DOCK’.”

Wise words shared with me, and after a few moments of pondering how I pronounce it (the former), the analogy made perfect sense. Allow me to share how I came to this aha conclusion.

Burdock is a plant, a jolly British one at that, hence the pronunciation, and a member of the thistle group. More common in Asian cuisine, the roots, flower stalk and leaves are deliciously edible, and tinctures and teas are oft made from the humble plant, both for homeopathic purposes, and pleasurable ones (the bittering component of burdock was used widely in beer before hops).

Of course, Burdock & Co. chef and co-owner Andrea Carlson is very familiar with all of burdock’s uses–as well as hundreds of other fruits, vegetables, flowers and plants. An avid gardener, she is a valued alumni of Tofino Botanical Garden, Sooke Harbour House, C Restaurant, Raincity Grill, and most recently, Bishops–all invaluable pillars of the 100 Mile Diet, and exemplifiers of locavore eating. So when Chef Carlson announced she was opening her own little sliver of a restaurant (the gastro opposite of illustrious fine dining icon Bishops), Vancouver took notice. The concise, share plates menu is comprised of organic, local ingredients, and reads like a poetic homage to sustainable producers and urban gardeners. A casual atmosphere complements the theme – exposed wood and painted brick, a communal table for inviting neighbourly camaraderie, hefty tableware and an open kitchen instantly initiate comfort, echoing the vibe of the rising and creative Mount Pleasant ‘hood where they’re located.

Dishes are very vegetarian/vegan friendly, though sustainable meats and seafood guest star. Recent dinner plates include Poached Egg on Toast, Sunroot Humous, Wild Mushroom and Baby Cabbage Sauté; Braised Lamb Neck, Red Wine Risotto; and FarmHouse La Pyramide Cheese with Hives 4 Humanity Urban Honey. Don’t miss the Fried Chicken and Pickles with Charred Chili Vinegar – just trust me on this. Of course, as a certifiable wine geek, I base many of my dining decisions on the beverage program alone, and Burdock & Co. has one of the most exciting, edited and precise programs in town. A love letter to natural wines and sustainable producers, the list skips from local heroes (2012 Clean Slate Whole Cluster Rosé, Naramata, BC ‘alpine strawberries, crisp, clean and bright’) to esoteric icons (2012 Frank Cornelissen Rosa del Contadino, Mt. Etna, Italy ‘crazy wine: pop rocks, lava, tannin, meat. What?’) and is curated by local winemaker/importer Matthew Sherlock. Craft beers and botanically-based cocktails round out the beverage program, all priced excruciatingly and incredibly well.

So back to my opening analogy about the pronunciation of Burdock. Yes – there are different types of people in this world and perhaps not everyone will be able to immediately appreciate the pace and theme of Burdock & Co. But for folks keen to experience unfamiliar ingredients, savor seasonality and appreciate thoughtful, meaningful relationships from root to plate AND root to glass, Burdock & Co. is waiting for you.

Burdock & Co. || 2702 Main St., Vancouver || burdockandco.com

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Track on Twitter: @burdockandco.com

Treve Ring

TREVE RING is a wine journalist, judge and certified sommelier based in British Columbia. In addition to duties as national managing editor at WineAlign and executive editor at Gismondi On Wine, she is an editor for MONTECRISTO Magazine, Scout Magazine, EAT Magazine and co-founder of Cru Consultancy.

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