Location, location, location. Well before pulling up to the stark white, history-steeped Moran Mansion and stepping foot into its high-ceilinged foyer, Orcas Island, Wash.’s Rosario Resort hits the mark based on location alone. Catch a ferry from Anacortes, hop a seaplane from Lake Union or Lake Washington, or befriend a sailor and dock up on adjacent Cascade Bay. However you arrive, a day trip or overnight getaway to the San Juan Islands’ star of the National Register of Historic Places is a must for locals and visitors alike.
Upon receiving diagnosis of impending death by heart disease in the early 20th century, Seattle shipbuilder Robert Moran retired early and sought sanctuary on Orcas Island, where he built Moran Mansion between 1906 and 1909 (and eventually acquired more than 7,000 acres of land, including Moran State Park). As it turned out, the entrepreneur and ship-engineering friend to John Muir had simply been experiencing high anxiety due to overworking, and the Rosario property seemed to alleviate the problem, as Moran died years later in 1943.
“[Orcas Island] is a wonderful place in which to forget one’s troubles and worries and get back to Nature in her happiest moods,” Moran wrote. “A delightful place in which to regain health—physical, mental and spiritual.” In 1960, property owners caught on, and land reopened as Rosario Resort. Today, the resort spans 40 waterfront acres, and features six stylistically varied lodging experiences: the amenity-packed two-bedroom Residence suites, the original Roundhouse Suite (built in 1913), ocean-perched Cliffhouse Honeymoon Suite and Bayside, Hillside or Harborside rooms.
A short walk or drive from the Moran Mansion lobby, the heavily wooded Harborside building has the feel of a condo complex from the parking lot. Step inside and rooms vary in size and amenities—but step in further, and you’ll be over-the-top sold by a private balcony boasting a killer bay view. Nautical, simplistic, earth-tone décor, flat screen TV, unlimited Wi-Fi and private bathroom with tub put you at ease, and the island’s limited cell service permits you to unplug and recharge.
Once settled, mosey down to the mansion in time for happy hour at the Moran Lounge. Built in the middle of the Arts and Crafts movement of the early 1900s, the mansion retains the era’s characteristic sense of hand-craftsmanship (think stained glass, mosaics and mahogany)—and perhaps no area on the main floor charms more than the lounge.
Enjoy a cocktail collaboration from bartender Karen Meng, restaurant manager Mollie McCown and other dining staff alongside the hearth fireplace in the original Moran living room. Taste the latest from the ongoing oak barrel-aging project, including the housemade Manhattan Project. Or, dare to invoke legendary mansion spirits and order the Ghost of Alice Rheem—featuring organic Sun Liquor vodka, pomegranate liqueur, curacao and a lemon twist. Regardless of your drink order, you can be sure you’re sipping on spirits that are local, organic or both.
In the adjacent Mansion Restaurant, drink in waterfront views of the Eastsound village while you drink up in anticipation of local and seasonally focused dishes from the kitchen. Executive Chef (and state-of-the-art kitchen architect) Dan Koommoo and staff rely heavily on island artisans for local produce, meats and seafood. If the savory, fresh-baked dinner rolls are any indication (and they are), you’ll be ready to dive fork first into entrees such as the popular Swinomish or Lummi Nation tribe-caught Sockeye Salmon, served on a bed of shaved zucchini and topped with a chilled cucumber-herb cream. Wash it down with a selection from the wine and beer list featuring the epitome of local—Eastsound-based Island Hoppin’ Brewery.
Of course, throughout the restaurant, upstairs museum area and lower-level spa, you’ll notice authentic Moran touches, including framed black-and-white family photos. If you’re lucky, hear the stories of the very ground you walk on at Saturday’s music concert and historical narrative, hosted by General Manager, history enthusiast, Rosario Yesterdays author and pipe organ extraordinaire Christopher Peacock. Just promise to soak it all in before the returning ferry ride.
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